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Chino Camper Repair

Published Jun 11, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Repair Chino, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I really did not see anything awry, but retracted both awning just to be risk-free. Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had actually been retreated from the wall surface (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid right into has retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Chino Camper Repair. I'm assuming the repair service will require replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of larger gauge screws to replace those that were drawn out

We have actually got damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repair services, and so on, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience before we understood the axle remained in difficulty. We have not had the awning out considering that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is great. The rear bracket assembly is fine, yet the front one is split at the base and completely damaged through at the top, so that the leading support arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Even the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our despair (Chino Camper Repair).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it needs to be completely replaced? The RV is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would like recommendations as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly also obtain us with the summer season - without having to place in a brand name brand-new awning! We're in a very major bind because we have actually a journey planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or postponed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to discover a quick and reliable remedy. Anyone? Please!.

Welcome to my RV Renovation Collection!.?.!! I get on action 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing system. However in order to remove the 4th one, I need to remove the motor home awning also.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roof covering outdoor decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to set on the ground. Initially I drew these out. Pushing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally notice just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially prior to the last actions of this article (revealing the front and back sides of the roof covering decking).

Here's an information of just how the awning installing braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not in fact have to do this action up until the awning got on the ground yet I observed this established screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the right end of the awning.) I went ahead and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, just draw back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the installing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded edge at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws removed from the awning placing bracket on the right. Removing the installing brace of the awning. When the placing braces are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is essentially just like a regular piece of aluminum roofing system edge trim molding except that at the lower edge there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roof like me, after that you wouldn't require to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Now it's simply like removing the side trim molding on the other side of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to cut completion with an energy knife if it is put under the rail) and after that simply pull it out.

You may have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Simply tug it out!

When the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) DIRECTS! When I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. Once you start pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground little bit by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just slides right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 set screws were removed I might slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. Another look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

The next thing holding down the rv fiberglass siding panels is the edge trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I could loosen some screw heads.

Nevertheless I might end up eliminating it later on if I need to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass transition. The roof covering decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass shift have to be raised. To raise that, the edge molding have to be removed.

Then I can swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I could swing that item of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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At that factor I switched from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping knife. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the very same means, and curved it sidewards simply sufficient so that I could raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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The side of the roof covering decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing system substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling but glue at this moment) and after that I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts whatsoever holding down the roof covering plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scraped up several of the busted little bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The whole point began to draw up cleanly unscathed without harming the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I can see the steel framing underneath. After that the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the base that joins the assemble. I don't recognize exactly how exactly they managed to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The items of roofing system ply are joined together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly understood the roof was shedding strength and stiffness as I pulled up the top layer, so fractured it off prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which indicates I'll finish getting rid of those edge trim items all the means down besides. We'll get to that later. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

It's just standing out with the staples. Lastly the side of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the leading edge. Same deal once more. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down however adhesive at this moment) and then I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Chino Camper Repair. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was just glued. I started carefully peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts in any way holding down the roof covering plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scratched up some of the broken little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to pull up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand how specifically they handled to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly realized the roofing was shedding stamina and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off right before the very first joint. A close of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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