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It's truly good to see that this framework below is still very solid. To make it a little bit simpler to get to this and additionally just to get rid of this item, I'm gon na cut this panel back a little bit a lot more.

I'm gon na cut back a bit, and a little bit and a little bit, generally, I'm trying to find the component where this obtains solid once more similar to when I did the floor, it was the very same concept of, exactly how far back do we have to take it to get to good stuff? I'm gon na mess with that.

That additional cut, bringing this back, obtained me to where I found wood that's strong, so that's amazing. And one of the important things that's interesting out of this is, honestly, the framing of these trailers is really very simple. A great deal of 2 by 2s, two by 3s. There's not a great deal of intricate stuff going on here.

The lower line out of this is anything that looks hinky is regarding to come out of below and then come back and restore this with new framework stuff that'll let this edge go back together solidly. Now, when you do this, if you use a multi-toll, whatever you use to make these cuts you wan na be truly cautious.

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You're just gon na have to be very, really cautious as you go with to make certain you do not go through. Experience the product, not undergo the panel on the camper. I'm ready to cut this and what I've done is utilized a square to mark that line.

That worked out actually well and obtained that flush cut. It prepares to receive a new cross participant in there and I'm gon na repeat that process and just, like I said, get all the old junk out of here. The rebuild on the corner right here is going really well and second best concerning the lumber here.

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You can conversely simply get two by two as well. And, as I placed whatever together, as I've discussed in the past, one of the things I'm doing since I can't get to the outside to bring screws from the outside in to the end grain of this piece, or here, I could not get in in this manner, so rather it's the corner irons that are making this work so that I can link everything with each other.

This chunk of 2 by six lives right below and what it truly does, is on the outdoors, this is the reduced end of the brace that holds up the front awning. So this piece's purpose in life is to live right below and get the screws on that particular support.

Screws I'm using are just conventional inch and 5/8 timber screws and driving those with the charge driver. The influence wrench, effect driver, makes a really huge bargain on that particular and it makes stuff go a great deal faster. From here on out, it's rinse and repeat, any type of other location that are blocks like this, placed those in.

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With the repair work done on the inside we're nearly to a point where we can obtain new trim on the outside of the camper, however, prior to we can place new stuff on we obtained ta get old stuff off. There is a great deal of residue right here that's remaining from the trim that was on there.

Obtaining old caulk off, particularly motor home caulk, is challenging to do, but, I have actually obtained a technique for this making use of a multi-tool that makes this quite uncomplicated, quite easy. So first off, let's look at the multi-tool and what we require, that pointer, not a cutter, but what kind of pointer we need in that multi-tool to work on this.

And I have actually discovered that a multi-tool is a truly, really great way to do this. You have actually seen me use the multi-tool in other places on the camper, reducing wood out, reducing nails. Currently, in this case, we don't wan na reduce with it we wan na press with it. This comes to be essentially a putty knife on steroids.

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Believe of, if you might get a putty knife, if you did obtain a putty blade up versus that caulk and you were pushing versus it, yet like a billions times a minute, that's what we're gon na do with this. So, of what we're doing, we do not want a saw blade on below.

What I'm gon na do is start by knocking the teeth off. I'm gon na make this somewhat convex, and after that I'm gon na develop it just a little, it does not have to be a knife edge, yet simply imagine what the idea of a putty blade looks like. That's all we want this to look like when we're done.

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Now we can go after that caulk. Now that we have the best tool for the task, we can start pursuing this caulk and component of the secret to this is when you come in with a multi-tool, this is more challenging than the light weight aluminum. Don't come in at a real steep angle.

And it's just gon na be an issue of locating the best angle, locating the appropriate angle, and after that slicing, slicing, cutting, until you obtain every one of that deposit off of there similar to this. Well, there you go, you understand, and for me, there's great deals more of this to do, so luckily, say thanks to benefits it's as very easy as it is with the multi-tool.

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Beware of your substratum. Make certain that the device is not gon na harm the substratum when you're working on getting this caulk off below. I simply obtained ta get back to it and obtained this whole corner to go. Our last step in tidying up caulk deposit and other junk below on the camper is to utilize a cord wheel and a drill.

Now, once more, like I have actually mentioned before, before you do this, ensure that whatever area you're tidying up can hold up against the rigors of a cord wheel being run over it. It works great on this aluminum skin. Would not be a fantastic choice for any type of sort of a membrane, but primarily we just wan na scrub here and it's gon na knock off this scrap that didn't come off from the previous action, such as this.

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Really what we wan na do right here is make certain that if you're using this keep it moving like that. Don't just float in one place 'cause we can get rubbing from this and we do not wan na burn the paint that's left on here. I have actually got ta a piece of trim and it's prepared, however we're not in fact installing the trim now.

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So what I'm gon na do is fasten this item on momentarily. I'm gon na create the edge and after that take it withdraw and we got ta get involved in an entire caulking action here. At this stage of the game, right here's what this is gon na look like. I'm gon na get this in place like that.

And this becomes part of the factor, component of the reason I'm doing this currently is due to this messing up about, yet when there's butyl tape on here and there's caulk on the molding and I do not wan na be doing this kind of fooling around when that stuff gets on here.

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You wan na encourage this piece that it's gon na flex. It's made out of light weight aluminum. It's gon na make the bend, until this piece below begins to satisfy the face of the camper there, and, something like that.

I believe we're about all set to go - Rv Camper Repair Chino Hills. So once more, what this provides for me, is it's simply gon na make the following action an entire great deal much easier to do and it's gon na, I'm not gon na be battling the trim and collaborating with damp caulk and all that other stuff when we reach the following action.

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In the globe of preparation, up to this point, you saw me placed the bend in the trim. The other thing I performed in addition to the cord wheel and the putty blade, gizmo point, is I ran solvent, I ran denatured alcohol over the beyond the skin below just to see to it any type of last little of residue was off of there.

It's an economical insurance coverage plan to wipe whatever down with denatured alcohol. Now, the putty tape is simply what it appears like, it's tape constructed of putty, very a lot like plumbing professionals putty, and the means we'll use this is to stick it to the camper. I have actually already come down this much.

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If you do, often it stretches out, and I wan na make sure that I keep the complete body of this putty. I do not wan na take any type of opportunity of extending it.

It's a whole lot like if you have actually made use of double-face tape for anything it's similar in this respect. Currently with our trim, it's obtained a wide flange in this direction and a narrow flange here. That's excellent to know due to the fact that now I'm gon na boil down this wall surface, and I don't need much putty going in this manner because the trim, the flange, the overlay, is narrow because instructions.

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Which is to make sure that we can do this. So this is great since with this putty, it's satisfying the form and now we're creating an edge below that's actually gon na secure up where these 2 skins meet outside of the camper. And the other thing I should point out is that of the important things I did right here is I completed 4-Penny galvanized box nails, and I toenailed the skin right at the side to the two-bys that were restored into this edge so that this stuff is already solid.

Or else, if I hadn't done that, when I was doing this job right currently, that light weight aluminum would certainly be flopping around like insane. Repeat this process, functioning your method, all the means down to the bottom of the camper. And creating that overlay on the edge. Much like I have there.

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I made the effort prior to I got this far to put caulk on the back face of this item. So as I seat this currently it's going right into the putty and a bed of recreational vehicle caulk that I currently installed there. Now, at this phase of the video game, I'm just gon na drive screws, but we're gon na speak about that in a little bit.

and there is a technique in the insanity. I'm gon na drill a little predrill right there. Wan na make certain that they obtain driven far enough yet not overdriven 'cause that will certainly squash the result of that nice washing machine. But it'll be much easier to show you that when we're a little further down.

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When I drive this versus the trim or any kind of other element on the camper for that issue, we want that neoprene to seat and it is very important to not underdrive it or overdrive it. And it is necessary that we obtain this going in to make sure that the head of this is gon na wind up parallel to the face of what we're touching.