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Pop Up Camper Roof Repair East Irvine

Published Jun 06, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair Places Near Me East Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid right into has actually drawn away from the wall and twisted a little bit - Pop Up Camper Roof Repair East Irvine. I'm assuming the fixing will entail replacing that entire size of rainfall seamless gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using larger gauge screws to change those that were drawn out

We've obtained busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repair services, etc, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy trip before we recognized the axle remained in difficulty. We have not had the awning out considering that it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is great. The rear bracket assembly is great, however the front one is fractured at the bottom and totally damaged through at the top, so that the top support arm no much longer affixes to the camper.

Also the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Pop Up Camper Roof Repair East Irvine).

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like guidance as to how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe also get us via the summer season - without having to place in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to discover a fast and efficient option. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to remove the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof covering and roof covering decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to establish on the ground.

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You'll likewise see exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to come off first before the last actions of this post (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Below's an information of how the awning installing braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this action till the awning was on the ground yet I discovered this set screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply pull back on the brace. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the RV awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded corner at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing bracket on the. Removing the placing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the whole roof covering like me, after that you would not require to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Currently it's much like getting rid of the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to cut the end with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and afterwards just tug it out.

You might need to reduce completion with an utility knife if it is covered under. Simply yank it out! When the vinyl screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went quite quickly.

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing instantly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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When the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will instantly snap totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that lower it the ground gradually by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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After that I leaned the legs back versus the camper. As soon as the awning got on the ground I eliminated the little set screw at the ideal end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just glides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail away.

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When both established screws were removed I can glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Another look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can eliminate the old roof covering outdoor decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rustic staples stifling. I tore them out as ideal I could. The next thing holding down the rv fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

Nonetheless I might end up removing it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. The roofing decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass change have to be lifted. To raise that, the edge molding should be gotten rid of.

I could turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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I switched over from a scrape to a rigid 6 vast putty knife. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. Then I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the exact same means, and curved it sidewards simply sufficient so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

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It's simply popping via the staples. The edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually exposed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge. Same offer again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling however glue at this moment) and after that I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

Once I scuffed up a few of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing started to bring up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I might see the steel framing below. Yet after that the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel enhanced tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I don't understand exactly how exactly they handled to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly recognized the roof covering was shedding stamina and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off prior to the initial seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down yet glue now) and after that I might yank out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Pop Up Camper Roof Repair East Irvine. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

When I scratched up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to pull up cleanly in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize how precisely they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly realized the roof was shedding strength and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the very first seam. A close of the metal framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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