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Pop Up Camper Repair Norco

Published Jun 02, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Pop Up Camper Repair Norco. I'm assuming the repair work will involve changing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using bigger scale screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got broken braces on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant fixings, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy trip prior to we understood the axle remained in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out since it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket setting up is fine, but the front one is split near the bottom and completely appeared at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no more fastens to the camper. We are in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Pop Up Camper Repair Norco).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it needs to be totally changed? The motor home is a 2007, however we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was new at that time. If nothing else, we would like guidance as to how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - possibly even get us with the summer season - without needing to place in a new awning! We're in a very severe bind due to the fact that we have actually a trip intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or delayed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd instead find a quick and efficient solution. Anyone? Please!.

Welcome to my Motor Home Renovation Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I eliminated the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roof covering. But in order to remove the 4th one, I need to remove the recreational vehicle awning too.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roof covering outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be gotten rid of to set on the ground. Initially I drew these out. Pressing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise discover exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to come off first before the final steps of this message (exposing the front and back sides of the roof decking).

Here's a detail of just how the awning installing braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this action till the awning got on the ground yet I discovered this set screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the ideal end of the awning.) I went ahead and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, merely draw back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the installing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical corner at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the. Removing the installing bracket of the awning.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. Below's a look at the round channel at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing like me, then you wouldn't require to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Currently it's simply like eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Pull out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to reduce completion with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and then simply yank it out.

You might need to cut completion with an energy knife if it is covered under. Simply tug it out! Once the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went quite promptly.

Once the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber underneath.) DIRECTS! As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was attached under it. When you begin pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that decrease it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just glides right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 set screws were removed I can glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Another appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

I tore them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rusty staples quieting. I tore them out as best I could. The next point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass siding panels is the edge trim molding shown here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once more I simply tore up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later if I need to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass transition. The roofing system decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass change must be raised. To raise that, the edge molding have to be removed.

I could swing the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I changed from a scrape to a rigid 6 large putty knife. This item chipped out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. At that factor I switched from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened the other edge trim in the very same method, and curved it sidewards just sufficient so that I might raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which means I'll finish removing those corner trim items all the means down. We'll get to that later. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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It's just popping via the staples. The edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually revealed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the leading edge. Very same bargain once more. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much stifling but glue at this point) and after that I could yank out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. I started thoroughly peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners in any way holding back the roof plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scuffed up several of the busted bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire thing began to pull up easily unscathed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Currently I might see the steel framework below. Yet after that the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the items with each other. I do not recognize exactly how specifically they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly recognized the roof was shedding stamina and stiffness as I drew up the leading layer, so broke it off prior to the first joint. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I located a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge.

Once again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much quieting but glue at this moment) and afterwards I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Pop Up Camper Repair Norco. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scuffed up several of the busted little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to pull up cleanly unharmed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I might see the steel framing underneath. But after that the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't know exactly how precisely they handled to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly understood the roof was shedding toughness and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the very first seam. A close of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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