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Camper Trailer Repair Near Me Silverado

Published May 29, 25
12 min read

Camper Roof Repair Silverado, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing knobs tightened up down.) I didn't see anything amiss, but withdrawed both awning simply to be secure. Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is moved right into has actually retreated from the wall and twisted a bit - Camper Trailer Repair Near Me Silverado. I'm thinking the repair service will involve replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using bigger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We've obtained busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, major repair work, and so on, and we question if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy experience before we understood the axle remained in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out considering that it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, and so on, is fine. The back brace setting up is great, however the front one is cracked at the base and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Does this sound sensible? Even the real assistance arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a larger grey steel - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it has to be totally replaced? The motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was all new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as recommendations regarding how we can "jerry gear" this for some time - perhaps even get us through the summer season - without having to place in a brand brand-new awning! We remain in a really serious bind since we have a journey intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or held off.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to find a fast and effective option. Anyone? Please!.

Welcome to my Recreational Vehicle Restoration Series!.?.!! I get on action 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I got rid of the roof covering trim molding from three sides of the roof covering. In order to remove the 4th one, I require to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing system and roofing system decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to establish on the ground. First I drew these out. Pressing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires ahead off first prior to the last actions of this message (exposing the front and back sides of the roof outdoor decking).

Here's an information of how the awning installing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this step till the awning was on the ground but I noticed this set screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the ideal end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the placing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing brace on the. Eliminating the placing bracket of the awning. When the installing brackets are separated, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is essentially just like a regular piece of aluminum roofing side trim molding other than that at the bottom side there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To replace the roofing system, this awning bar requires to be eliminated. If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, after that you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to lower the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Now it's much like eliminating the side trim molding on the other side of the camper. Draw out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to reduce the end with an utility knife if it is tucked under the rail) and afterwards simply pull it out.

You might need to cut the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. After that simply yank it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went rather swiftly.

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber underneath.) DIRECTS! When I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire point unexpectedly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Simply understand it's coming! When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof that was secured under it. Once you begin pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply moves right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 set screws were eliminated I might move the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can get rid of the old roofing system decking is to expose completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The following thing holding down the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding shown here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip inserted, so once again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I might end up eliminating it later on if I require to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass change. The roof covering decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass change have to be lifted. To lift that, the edge molding have to be gotten rid of.

Then I can turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I could turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened the other edge trim in the very same way, and curved it sidewards just sufficient so that I could raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which implies I'll end removing those edge trim items all the means down nevertheless. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down yet glue now) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started thoroughly peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scratched up a few of the damaged little bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to draw up cleanly intact without damaging the foam board insulation at all. Now I can see the steel framing below. After that the plywood started peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not recognize exactly how precisely they took care of to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly understood the roof was shedding strength and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the very first seam. A close of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

It's just standing out with the staples. The edge of the roof outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the leading edge. Exact same offer once again. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much quieting yet adhesive at this moment) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Camper Trailer Repair Near Me Silverado. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no fasteners in any way holding down the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scratched up several of the busted little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The whole point began to bring up cleanly unscathed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I could see the steel framework under. After that the plywood began peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I do not understand just how specifically they took care of to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are signed up with together at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly understood the roofing system was shedding strength and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off just prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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